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  1. fnberzerker

    fnberzerker Oakley Enthusiast Premium Member

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    Hi all, apologies if this info is elsewhere, please point me there if so. Does anyone have experience cerakote-ing or duracoating x metal frames? I'm thinking about trying to find a run down/used Juliet or Xmtl XX frame to coat and am wondering about tolerances and clearances for all of the movable or joined parts. Any ideas OF? Thanks,
    Erik
     
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  2. OakleyFrankFMJ

    OakleyFrankFMJ The Legend - - Vlad the Impaler Premium Member Lifetime Member

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  3. fnberzerker

    fnberzerker Oakley Enthusiast Premium Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply! I'll look forward to hearing from either of them.

    To be more precise about the info I seek, for everyone reading, do I need to tape off areas to maintain tolerances and clearances, or will everything still fit together if I just shoot it? They don't have to be show quality, as it will be me wearing them, but I would like to maintain all functionality.
     
  4. kronin323

    kronin323 Font of Useless Knowledge Premium Member

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    We'll see what the experts have to say but I'm fairly sure you don't need to tape them off, because (if you do it right) the cerakote layer is so thin it makes no appreciable difference to the tolerances...

    If you browse through the x-man's custom corner thread, he might have discussed this once upon a time...

    The X-MAN Customs Corner | Oakley Forum
     
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  5. THE X-MAN

    THE X-MAN Forum Sponsor Gold Forum Sponsor Premium Member Lifetime Member

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    you have to sandblast those frames for the paint to have a mechanical bond.spray in light coats then bake them in the oven.you have to do them in pieces and then put them together or the rubber inside will melt in the nose piece.chop knows more than i though.
     
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  6. THE X-MAN

    THE X-MAN Forum Sponsor Gold Forum Sponsor Premium Member Lifetime Member

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    or you can just leave them sit in the Sun for an hour or two you don't necessarily have to bake duracoat.cerakote may have to bake out the solids
     
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  7. dr.chop

    dr.chop Oakley Expert

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    it really depends on the color you want and the cerakote you use. If it is an air cure, then you don't have to bake it, but for it to reach maximum hardness/cured state, you have to let them sit 5 days. Now, with the oven cure, you can get away with the lower heat range for curing, but if it's a beater, I would imagine the rubber flex couplers would need replacing anyway, so it's a non issue for those parts. I would recommend full breakdown so you have no remnants of the old surface/coating to be a potential issue down the road. I can't speak about Duracoat since I personally have never used it, but Cerakote is a thin film, so tolerances aren't an issue. Depending on the color, 1-2 coats MAX is recommended, so it doesn't take much to take care of the job. If you lay on too much, it will screw with the finish, not so much the tolerances...It's a learning curve for sure. When done right, it's killer stuff, when not, it's a killer to fix. The armor clear is a real serious PITA if you have an issue after curing. It's called ARMOR for a reason lol.
     
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  8. fnberzerker

    fnberzerker Oakley Enthusiast Premium Member

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    Awesome, thanks for the replies! I'll probably do the cerakote. But first I might need to go give harbor freight some money for a little blast table. Maybe if I like it I'll end up diving in a little deeper. Thanks again!
     
  9. dr.chop

    dr.chop Oakley Expert

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    Don't waste your money on a Harbor Freight Box...Trust me. You will spend way more trying to make the lighting better, the seals actually seal, replacing the gloves since they don't actually sell any for it and getting a real blast gun..By the time you have done all that, you can just buy one of these below, and if you are closer to them, the shipping is either cheap or free I think.

    Home Shop (34W) Sandblasting Cabinets - TP Tools & Equipment
     
  10. fnberzerker

    fnberzerker Oakley Enthusiast Premium Member

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    Awesome, thanks! I'll check them out.