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By Rustpot on 11/22/13 at 9:24 PM
  1. Rustpot

    Rustpot M Frame Lover Premium Member

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    If you haven't yet, it's time to buy a proper screw driver for your X-Metal frame. Please DON'T use the crap drivers that are included free, or that came in your kit of 100 bits for $10. They WILL damage your screws, and for a pair of glasses that cost a few hundred bucks an extra $5 is worth it!

    When dealing with smaller head and socket sizes having the proper driver is even more critical! What makes a screw driver proper?
    1. Precision cut tip - fits the pocket in the head of the screw better to avoid slipping and to transmit as much torque as possible. The Torx design allows more surface contact than a phillips or slotted screw, and more surface means more torque. Cheap drivers will not be a 100% fit and allow the driver to "skip" teeth or pop out of the screw's pocket. Both of these actions will strip out the head of the screw.
    2. Comfortable and easy to use. A grip that slips isn't good at all. It needs to be long enough to fill the length of your palm for proper grip using all of your fingers and to allow you to use your palm to set pressure into the screw to avoid slipping.
    3. Hard enough to not twist or deform when working. A cheap driver will be made too soft or too brittle and literally twist and deform on a stuck screw, or break/shear and leave you back at square 1.
    Two main types to consider are

    A: A traditional screw driver. A fixed handle that will fit in your entire hand. Maximum grip and control.

    B: A precision screw driver with a rotating cap. Usually these have a shorter and slimmer handle. The benefit to the rotating cap is that it allows you to anchor the butt of the driver in your palm or with your finger to apply constant pressure while continuously turning the driver. You don't need to reposition or let go to continue to drive the screw. The downside is the slim shaft is harder to grip strongly with more than one or two fingers and may not allow you to apply enough break-torque on a stuck screw. NOT GOOD FOR STUCK SCREWS

    As reported by other members the brand used at Oakley HQ is Wiha. I highly recommend their SoftFinish and PicoFinish screw drivers for working on X-Metals.

    Do You Have The Right Tool For Your X-Metal? - A670_1_20150817514085085.jpg
     
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Comments

Discussion in 'Oakley X-Metal Discussion' started by Rustpot, 11/22/13.

    1. Rustpot

      Rustpot M Frame Lover Premium Member

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      Tips for dealing with your X-Metal screws

      - Anchor your frame against a firm surface like a desk. Don't try to turn the screws while holding the frame in midair.

      - Inspect your screw and driver before using either. Clean the pocket of the screw to ensure the driver will fit. Check the tip of the driver to make sure it's not damaged or deformed - if it is THROW IT OUT.

      - Ensure your driver is co-axial with the screw, making solid, flat contact. Being off-kilter can leading to slipping, and slipping means stripping.

      - Don't tighten the screws as hard as you can. Turn the screw into the frame until it stops on its own, then turn 1/4 to 1/2 turn further to tighten.

      - Check your screws often. By not tightening your screws as hard as possible there is a chance they'll back out and come loose on their own. Check the screws by inserting the driver and lightly trying to tighten the screw. If it's loose or even not as tight as you set it before, go a little further for your final tightness setting, 1/4 turn at a time.

      - Your screws are wear items. If the threads or head are damaged replace the screw with a new one. Clean the screw threads before reusing them to help keep the frame clean. Dirty threads can lead to stuck screws.

      - A fine bottle brush and compressed air will help you clean the threads on your frame. Dirt or debris can cause added or reduced friction, cause screws to strip threads, or lead to stuck threads.
       
      Last edited: 11/22/13
    2. Lexkempo

      Lexkempo Frog Fanatic

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      Nice write up! Ima look into Wiha in the future!
       
    3. lu270bro

      lu270bro Oakley Enthusiast

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      Great info bro. Wiha is the shiz. Great stuff. I do instrumentation work at nuclear plants and those are in my toolbag. Highly recommended.
       
    4. washi me sensie

      washi me sensie The Oakley R┼Źnin

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      Nice 1 rustpot! thanks for posting!! this should be a sticky!!
       
    5. THE X-MAN

      THE X-MAN Forum Sponsor Gold Forum Sponsor Premium Member Lifetime Member

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      And if you have a T6 that is damaged or "stripped" you can take one of the wiha's (you should have a few) and grind down the tip just a bit to make the geometry sharp and slightly larger(the geometry on the T6 driver has a taper on it so as you remove material from the tip the working diameter will increase)this will bite into the damaged screw head and usually remove the stripped fastener. I have one like this in my arsenal and it has almost always worked for me.and also try using a anti seize compound or grease on the threads, this way you wont have any problems removing the hardware later on in life.
       
    6. 702baby

      702baby Under The Electric Sky

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      clicked on the link, so any of those drivers listed are good or is there a specific one we should get?
       
    7. Rustpot

      Rustpot M Frame Lover Premium Member

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      The link I put in my first post gives you Wiha T6 drivers. You don't need ESD (anti-static) or insulated. I'd go with the SoftFinish, PicoFinish, or the ergonomic/Proturn. But yes, they're all quality T6 drivers.

      I might avoid the cheapest one there, just for the simple fact that $2 more gets you a little better tip and a rubberized handle.

      Shipping is probably more than the driver.
       
    8. 702baby

      702baby Under The Electric Sky

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      any recommendations for a quality T-5 driver?
       
    9. Rustpot

      Rustpot M Frame Lover Premium Member

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