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Help - fixing a stuck temple screw

If you have access to different acids you could dissolve the screw while leaving the frame intact. I'm in the mountains and not in the lab so I can't give accurate advice on type and concentration at the moment... :oops:
 
Like @jdd32 said, the titanium should be fine with whatever you buy over the counter, the finish on it may be a different story.
 
In theory that stainless steel screw would melt well before the titanium. The entire screw must come out or you're going to have threads stuck in the titanium and then your going to run a 2-56 fragile tap in there and break the tap off in the orbital.next time if a screw is stuck......let a professional take care of it.
 
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Here is the update.

We bought a small drill head (run clock-wise, to create a tiny hole for the extract-drill head) - see pictures - with an extract-drill head (to run counter-clock); and try to to drill the left over screw out. About 30 minutes to 45 minutes, of drill and check, with patient, slow drill (not applying too much force)...

Then we try to drill from the top, imagine this is a very no-breath task, it didn't go through either. the left over screw internal part is still solid steel.

still it didn't work......although it paves the way for the next daring task.

So, what is the point? Adventure!.... We use the Pin Pusher and it works. We push from bottom once - slow motion with minimal force increase bit by bit, we push from the top once; then the next round, we push from the bottom, and finally the final push from the top with (I was thinking it is okay to lost this orbital....) and voila, it come out.

The internal thread of the orbital temple (or rail) still work fine, we immediately use a temple screw to test it out. and boom, it works! Probably, the stuck-screw thread (rail) has some rust which make it possible to be pushed out successfully without damaging the thread.

The whole process takes about 1:30 hour to 2 hours!
IMG_5781.JPG IMG_5780.JPG IMG_5769.JPG

IMG_5908.JPG
 
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Thanks everyone who contributed ideas, and I hope this can be of help to others who got a similar problem - but I do hope you don't.
 
Here is the update.

We bought a small drill head (run clock-wise, to create a tiny hole for the extract-drill head) - see pictures - with an extract-drill head (to run counter-clock); and try to to drill the left over screw out. About 30 minutes to 45 minutes, of drill and check, with patient, slow drill (not applying too much force)...

Then we try to drill from the top, imagine this is a very no-breath task, it didn't go through either. the left over screw internal part is still solid steel.

still it didn't work......although it paves the way for the next daring task.

So, what is the point? Adventure!.... We use the Pin Pusher and it works. We push from bottom once - slow motion with minimal force increase bit by bit, we push from the top once; then the next round, we push from the bottom, and finally the final push from the top with (I was thinking it is okay to lost this orbital....) and voila, it come out.

The internal thread of the orbital temple (or rail) still work fine, we immediately use a temple screw to test it out. and boom, it works! Probably, the stuck-screw thread (rail) has some rust which make it possible to be pushed out successfully without damaging the thread.

The whole process takes about 1:30 hour to 2 hours!
View attachment 284691 View attachment 284690 View attachment 284689
Congrats on getting it out without destroying that orbital. :)

:hi:
 
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