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Hit A Bit Of A Snag When Changing Lenses On My Penny

I could send you an entire Juliet orbital. No nose bridge or arms. Then you could get hinge screws while you're at it
 
I could send you an entire Juliet orbital. No nose bridge or arms. Then you could get hinge screws while you're at it
I actually have one! But it's marc's, fresh from X Man, so I'm not going to touch it.

If you send me the screws, I can find a match for the screws as long as they're commercial. If they're custom, I can provide quotes for getting a few hundred made.

If they are custom, it'll be a couple bucks a screw at best. If Oakley has them made, they're done on a normal screw forge and not a screw machine. The screw machine still needs another operation to do the pocket in most cases.

If I can get the whole frame I might be able to select a screw that will work, but isn't identical to OEM.
 
rustie i am in for an order of screws if it helps. i also want penny hinge screws made- those are a impossible to find. i took a picture some time ago with the differences between julirt hinge, penny hinge and orbital (universal). romeo orbital screws are just longer juliet hinge screws (same head).
 
I don't own any metals anymore, so I have no access to any screws or frame components. I am not familiar with the differences between Juliet, Romeo, Mars, Penny, or any other frame and its fasteners. I also don't have a T6 driver, and my T5 is now BriP's T5 (if anything else uses a socket that small?).

I'll make some calls on later this week if I have time to get an idea of pricing for screws. Keep in mind I've worked every day since Jan 3rd, at least 8 hours a day, so my time for this sort of thing isn't exactly abundant. I can wedge a few hours in, but I don't have time for a weekend project or anything like that. I don't have CAD at home, so I'd be using company resources on a weekend to do a model of any kind to make a drawing for.

If it's just a stock screw with a smaller diameter head the easiest thing would be to buy them and turn the head down a little if the socket permits.
 
I don't own any metals anymore, so I have no access to any screws or frame components. I am not familiar with the differences between Juliet, Romeo, Mars, Penny, or any other frame and its fasteners. I also don't have a T6 driver, and my T5 is now BriP's T5 (if anything else uses a socket that small?).

I'll make some calls on later this week if I have time to get an idea of pricing for screws. Keep in mind I've worked every day since Jan 3rd, at least 8 hours a day, so my time for this sort of thing isn't exactly abundant. I can wedge a few hours in, but I don't have time for a weekend project or anything like that. I don't have CAD at home, so I'd be using company resources on a weekend to do a model of any kind to make a drawing for.

If it's just a stock screw with a smaller diameter head the easiest thing would be to buy them and turn the head down a little if the socket permits.

just an fyi on the t5, the splice uses them too :)
 
Returned the socket cap screws to Fastenal. The rep there was really helpful, she said there is nothing else that can fit in terms of socket cap screws. She ordered flat socket screws to try.

She recommended a local watch and clock repair guy, as they deal with all sorts of tiny screws. Went there and the guy is only opened 3 days a week. If you guys have a local watch/ clock shop close by might be worth a try.
 
You will never drill to the minor and expect the tap to remove the remaining screw.what he did is how ive done it on 20 pairs already. Drill the head first then use a needlenose to turn out the remaining screw.
 

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