Paint/Protection

[dr.chop]

Never said I use sand paper.

I was actually hoping for some advice. Didn't really need a lecture.. or a symposium on how great and wonderful you are man. I give you your credit, I'm very impressed with your work. I saw your argument with Colorado Customs the other day and fully support your side of things.

I was just trying to do something fun, not for profit, not something that would attempt to cut into your profit.

I wasn't lecturing you perse, just clarifying for those who don't know on those topics. I wasn't clear on sand paper use on user end or not, just hoping to help one avoid unnecessary work, material needs, and so on..

It's certainly a learning curve and can be frustrating at times, while other times quite rewarding. I was never good with models, so I have a great level of respect for those who are. I just couldn't get em all that great.

I wasn't trying to imply you would use advice for those purposes, it is simply that when I started, it was a hobby, and I helped people a lot. Then as the economy shifted, wiped out my career, and this began for me, others took what I helped and used it to cut in greatly. Those with regular employment and paychecks and so on. I simply don't advise anymore, so if it offended you, I hope you understand my reasoning for not offering more help, especially publicly here, and accept my apologies.

 

[Hando]

I completely understand your reasoning for not putting out all your info. It's good business to be tight lipped about things. If X-Man gave everybody a how to video on where to get everything needed to tighten frames, he'd be insane.

I completely understand trade secrets, was just hoping honestly, at most to get a brand of clear coat... cause I've never used the stuff.

I will take away from this not to use Sandpaper at all. I didn't think you were using enamel, and you clarified that (Damn I hate enamel with a passion). I think I'm set mostly, and have an idea of the clear coat I'm going to use. Since I'm not selling anything, I'm confident that if I **** something up, oh well, I know without a doubt the art of stripping paint from various mediums, so I'll just redo it!

Pretty excited, don't think I'll ever get to the level you're at, but definitely looking forward to starting my project when I get back from this mission in Lithuania.

I think one of the things I'd like to try to hit up is weathering powders. The Fallout collection has similar effects on the Rust Decay Breadboxes, and what not.. I'm sure I'll get pictures posted in the coming months.

 

[dr.chop]

I completely understand your reasoning for not putting out all your info. It's good business to be tight lipped about things. If X-Man gave everybody a how to video on where to get everything needed to tighten frames, he'd be insane.

I completely understand trade secrets, was just hoping honestly, at most to get a brand of clear coat... cause I've never used the stuff.

I will take away from this not to use Sandpaper at all. I didn't think you were using enamel, and you clarified that (Damn I hate enamel with a passion). I think I'm set mostly, and have an idea of the clear coat I'm going to use. Since I'm not selling anything, I'm confident that if I **** something up, oh well, I know without a doubt the art of stripping paint from various mediums, so I'll just redo it!

Pretty excited, don't think I'll ever get to the level you're at, but definitely looking forward to starting my project when I get back from this mission in Lithuania.

I think one of the things I'd like to try to hit up is weathering powders. The Fallout collection has similar effects on the Rust Decay Breadboxes, and what not.. I'm sure I'll get pictures posted in the coming months.

I posted that I use the House Of Kolor Clears. Specifically the USC01 Show Klear. Great stuff, but super finnicky. Enamels can be awesome, for their purpose, but a big pain in the @$$ more than not. I did some icons the other day and after 36 hours, still not dry. I mean seriously, out of the can 1shot enamel in high temp weather, and it refuses to cure/dry. A pain also lol. Nothing worse than sticking your hand in it and it being gooey.

 

[Hando]

Gah, I think the worst part about enamels... (I used Testors ages and ages ago) is the damage it does to high quality brushes.

 

[dr.chop]

Gah, I think the worst part about enamels... (I used Testors ages and ages ago) is the damage it does to high quality brushes.

oh ya, been there and done that. I use 1shot enamel, much better, but if you should need to condition your brushes, surprisingly, conventional motor oil is awesome. I though "huh, you gotta be kidding me", but no, that is what most of the striping pros use on natural hair type brushes. Not sure on synthetic fiber brushes, but mine are either mink, fox, or squirrel hair, so all of em get Castrol 30wt.

 

[Hando]

It's funny the things that work. I think my favorite stripping agent of all is dot3 brake fluid. Works on plastics and metals just great, doesn't melt the plastic. And works for enamel, acrylic, just fine.

Dude.. I gotta see these squirrel hair brushes. That's awesome.

 

[dr.chop]

It's funny the things that work. I think my favorite stripping agent of all is dot3 brake fluid. Works on plastics and metals just great, doesn't melt the plastic. And works for enamel, acrylic, just fine.

Dude.. I gotta see these squirrel hair brushes. That's awesome.

I have the Following:

Sword Stripers (blue squirrel hair)
Mack Series 10 0, 00, 000 sizes, the Hanson/Mack King 13 00000

Liner Brushes
Kafka 1, 2, 4, 5/0

Script Liners
Kafka 1 & 3

Sign Quills
Kafka "Kwills" 2 & 6

and then various brushes from Master Kolinsky which are sable, mink, and fox hair (german made brushes and are very nice)

 

[dr.chop]

The bottom right brushes are all blue squirrel hair

View attachment 4153

 

[Hando]

Oooo, very nice, I really like the Kafkas

 

[dr.chop]

Oooo, very nice, I really like the Kafkas

I do as well. very nice to control and flow really well.