• Take 30 seconds to register your free account to access deals, post topics, and view exclusive content!

    Register Today

    Join the largest Oakley Forum on the web!

Painting Frames- Questions

Im using Createx Colors, coastairbrush carrys it too, the colors dont look too bad, I did hot pink for the girl and she loved it, it was perfect till I tried spraying the same brand of clear on it, god it was awful. Been watching a lot of videos on mixing paint and using airbrushes. lot of reviews on diff brushes too. Not a lot I can find though relates to spraying HOK onto plastic lol. You have more information that anyone. You should make some vids even if its not on shades but anything plastic and using HOK paint. Been doing a ton of reading and youtubin though and as much sprayin in the garage as I can when im off work and im not riding. Just bought a HD Fatboy Lo so I been riding as much as I can. The reading and youtubin is easy, I work IT @ home so im always infront of several computers.
 
Hey dr.chop also wanted to say thanks again for providing us/me with so much infomation. Its going to be a while before I spray some shades but all the info you provide is great. Thanks again.
 
createx is great paint, but it is also specific on how to make it set for this type of work. I have literally 75 bottles of createx, 100 of Faskolors (which is actually createx branded for Parma), I have Wicked, Auto-Air, HOK, Alsa, Dupont, and a few others. Trust me, I play around with anything I can think of that will work. Problem with Createx in this environment is it doesn't "bite" into the frame...It just doesn't bond the same, and will chip/peel easily no matter what you clear it with...Killer color selection though. More damn pearls that you know what to do with.

As far as different airbrushes, it's different strokes for different folks, but I can tell you, Iwata is the most well balanced, precise, smoothest operating airbrush I have handled. Grex is another great brush I have tried, but the user support is nearly nil. No dealers at all have them around me. I sprayed them at an RCX expo a couple years ago, and I liked them...A damn good alternative, but it boils down to support. Iwata hands down takes care of the end user and listens to the pros. They say tweak this, and they try it...Until it's done perfect. It is very hard to find anything on youtube pertaining to this application. It is just so narrow and I honestly won't be making anymore tutorials cuz last time I did it bit me in the @$$...It is trial and error and I am no way that good yet. I can lay down colors, pearls, flake, fades, but detailed graphics, that ain't in my toolbox...Yet!! lol...

One of my biggest things is that I do is paint by feel. I don't follow some preset guidelines of this psi for this application, or that brush/paint for that. My workhorse brush is an Iwata Hiline HP-CH...While many use the Eclipse HP-CS (I have one) as a workhorse or the Hi-Performance line HP-C (upgraded from this to my HP-CH), I like the CH largely in part because of the MAC valve. No more psi crap, adjust at the head until the flow is what I like and go to work. It doesn't do heavy stuff though, and you will find the same in your NEO since they have similar sized needles/nozzles (if you bought the CN and not BCN). If you got the BCN, then it has the same setup as the BCS (and now my converted CS). It allows heavier material and a less detailed spray (no hairlines, but if reduced and setup right, you can get damn close). It is a ton of fun, and can lead into many many hours of enjoyment, or equal frustration lol. Hit me up in pm if you need anything or have more detailed questions...
 
Dr.Chop do you spray clear out of a airbrush or a mini spray gun or fullsized spray gun, just thinking forward for this application.
 
i have to say... dr.chop does some legit paintjobs
Why thank you sir...Much appreciated lol

Dude, I love harbor freight. Their stuff doesn't last long... But at that price... I just walk back in and buy a brand spankin new piece. Lol
They rock for some things, but not an airbrush. I mean you can get an OK brush there, but by the time you have bought 5-6 of them since you can't get replacement parts for them, you may as well have just bought a great used Iwata...

Dr.Chop do you spray clear out of a airbrush or a mini spray gun or fullsized spray gun, just thinking forward for this application.
Whatever is clever. I only have airbrushes currently, so as far as that goes for me, cut and dry...But, I am looking at buying a couple spray guns here really soon. As soon as someone buys up my Monster Dog ammo pack, or several of my remaining shades available lol.
 
I have a question related to putting back in lenses after a custom job has been done and would appreciate any advice. I had a pair of Frogskins water transfer printed on and then given a satin clear coat. When I went to put the lenses back in the print chipped off immediately around the lens edge and nose. I got the print re-done (method was the frame was sanded to promote adhesion, adhesion promoter, dip, lacquer) and this time I put some lubricant around the frame at the lenses and on the edges of the lenses themselves to ease them in but again the dip chipped off straight back to the original frame. Can any one give advice on why this might be? Does a thicker coat of lacquer/clear coat need to be applied? Something else? It's no good customising the frames if the lenses can't go back in.
 
Does anyone know if a primer needs to be applied before putting on a paint/water transfer print or is an adhesion promoter enough?
 
Back
Top