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Question About Romeo 1 Lens Cracking

yeah, well mine also does push outward very slightly, and in the romeo1s in using #25 t-shox to make them fit well. I reckon if you had the Romeos with #15 t-shox you'll be fine. QUICK PICK A PAIR UP! hahaha
Can't. I just dropped a considerable amount of scrillah on a pair of XX TiO2s on eBay. :(
 
most aftermarket lenses are worse. the fitment is terrible with major gaps, the lenses aren't hdo/xyz so they are uniform thickness across so optics are crap, and they are thinner to boot. I have seen many of the exovista and similar and they flat out suck. nothing more than cosmetic replacements for a pair to be displayed and not worn. Keep in mind, those frames have flex built in with rubber fittings in the bottom and top, so flex was designed into the Romeo, problem was it transfers to the top joints where they bolt together and inherently crack...just like a windshield, there are places you could smashnit with a break and not phase it, but other points where a pebble taps it and it splinters...just physics
 
Just a note, THICKER lenses will be WORSE. because the sharp metal points that touch the lenses will not have any movement before they touch the lens, which means even if you flex the frame a tiny bit the lens will be stressed. IMO using a slightly thinner lens allows the frame to flex slightly without touching the lens, meaning you wont have the lens under stress therefore no cracking
So far they 20+ pairs I have cut have never had issues. Thinner is not better, it equates to more flex which results in chipping of the cheap mirror coatings of aftermarket lenses and you still get the frame touching the lenses regardless. Plus, when I cut lenses, and I can't speak for anone else doing them either by hand or on pro equipment, I bevel for better fitment....just my experiences with Romeo 1....
 
The Romeo is actually better suited to a larger head size. Smaller faces just cannot pull off the look as the glasses are visually too large. The way to preserve the lenses is to as has been said, use the smallest size t shock possible and put on and remove like a hat / goggles, from the top of the head. This massively reduces the stress on the lenses as the arms hardly widen this way, as opposed to if they are drawn forward from the face in the usual method.
All x metals should be placed on and off this way as nose bridge stress is lessened, promoting far longer service intervals on the flex coupler.
 

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