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  1. THE X-MAN

    THE X-MAN Forum Sponsor Gold Forum Sponsor Premium Member Lifetime Member

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    another set of pennys rebuilt.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: 5/21/14
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  2. Irishhawk

    Irishhawk Oakley Beginner

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    Looking forward to 'em!
     
  3. jetta3381

    jetta3381 Oakley Enthusiast

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    Another nice rebuilt, I'm still waiting for my XX from Oakley. Can't wait to send them to you....
     
  4. BriP

    BriP X-Metalhead

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    those squash-head rivets look wayyy big. any way of making them more OEM?

    btw the penny colorway is "titanium" . there was never a plasma penny =)
     
  5. BriP

    BriP X-Metalhead

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    those squash-head rivets look wayyy big. any way of making them more OEM?

    btw the penny colorway is "titanium" . there was never a plasma penny =)
     
  6. THE X-MAN

    THE X-MAN Forum Sponsor Gold Forum Sponsor Premium Member Lifetime Member

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    Im working on it , the next set will be close to oem,but as i drill out the old pin the existing .081" hole does get a tad bigger,and if you want the pin to stay seated theres gonna be some expansion involved on the face of the rivit.the way i see it so far ,these pennys ive recieved were shot,its either a larger rivit head or they sit on the shelf.im an honest man ,if your not happy you pay nothing.
     
  7. BriP

    BriP X-Metalhead

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    i understand mark, its great that they are getting a second chance, but as with everything, where improvements can be made, we can try to do so =)
     
  8. qtrain23

    qtrain23 3D Printing Protege

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    Is there a particular reason why you can't machine/sand the head round like the original? Seems like it'd be pretty easy as I'd imagine the end were you part it off is the flanged end
     
  9. Irishhawk

    Irishhawk Oakley Beginner

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    Yeah I kinda got scammed on ebay. the nosebridge was crap. Yeah I would have preferred the rivits not looks so obvious but thats what it takes to fix em? then that's what ill deal with
     
  10. THE X-MAN

    THE X-MAN Forum Sponsor Gold Forum Sponsor Premium Member Lifetime Member

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    Heres how its done.....i make the flanged end first and machine to the correct length leaving .100" longer than the thickness of the bridge then push it through the back or face side of the bridge.now in order for the rivit to be held in place it has to be "drivin" from the front or rounded side to expand the diameter thus holding it it place.i then sand down the thickness so its only .025" high off the nosebridge .if someone has a pair they dont want refinished then much care is needed as to not touch the existing material and scratch it,thats why id like to blast and get it all to blend in together,but i cant always do that.i have another pair coming in this week that i am using a small cupped "driver" on to radius the front of the rivit and i know this will solve the athstetics issue.its just like anything... practice makes perfect.