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Stripped T6 Screw Head

thanks for the correction kronin..I thought it was just the screw, turned out it's much better..

I'm assuming that's correct - when he first posted the thread, I PM'd him asking,

"This stripped orbital thing, are you talking about removing a stripped screwhead, stripped threads on a screw, or stripped threads inside the orbital?"

And he replied, "the stripped orbital." So I guess he's talking about retapping the orbital screw hole.
 
Yes, I already tried the rubber band trick but that did not work. The screw is really tight. I am currently in the process of trying to drill out the head. It is taking a long time because I want to be super safe, and doing it by hand. I am tired now, so I will leave it for tomorrow to work on again. Hopefully this can really work and I can screw out the rest at the end. Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
Yes, I already tried the rubber band trick but that did not work. The screw is really tight. I am currently in the process of trying to drill out the head. It is taking a long time because I want to be super safe, and doing it by hand. I am tired now, so I will leave it for tomorrow to work on again. Hopefully this can really work and I can screw out the rest at the end. Thanks for all the suggestions!
If it's the screw, try this....Use a t7 or straight blade screwdriver, even a hex just a small bit larger...If the lens is in, it will make this part tougher, but if it's trashed, push it out and then relieve the stress off the frame to turn the screw easier...If it's not trash, you need to squeeze a bit with one hand while you press fairly firmly and turn the screw slowly. Generally that works. You may even want to heat it a bit in case someone may have used a threadlock on it, assuming it was purchased used. If all else fails, the best trick out there is to take a smooth straight blade screwdriver, work it between the 2 points of the frame where the screw is, and pry slightly....slide a bit more in and pry a little more. It won't hurt the frame at all or the threads, the metal of the frame is way stronger than the cheap soft stainless screws are. Basically, you will shear the threads off the screw and then clean out the hole. I have done it tons of times...you just don't go gorilla crazy when prying, just small increments...
 
Yes, I already tried the rubber band trick but that did not work. The screw is really tight. I am currently in the process of trying to drill out the head. It is taking a long time because I want to be super safe, and doing it by hand. I am tired now, so I will leave it for tomorrow to work on again. Hopefully this can really work and I can screw out the rest at the end. Thanks for all the suggestions!

Be careful with that - once you go too far, you'll be committed to drilling out the screw completely. Have the patience to get the right tools and get 'er done without making things tougher first...
 
If all else fails, the best trick out there is to take a smooth straight blade screwdriver, work it between the 2 points of the frame where the screw is, and pry slightly....slide a bit more in and pry a little more. It won't hurt the frame at all or the threads, the metal of the frame is way stronger than the cheap soft stainless screws are. Basically, you will shear the threads off the screw and then clean out the hole.

I haven't heard that one before, but I like it... :drinks:

Too bad you can't use it on soft-ass aluminum Hatchets... :(
 
Be careful with that - once you go too far, you'll be committed to drilling out the screw completely. Have the patience to get the right tools and get 'er done without making things tougher first...
Yes, well without the extraction tools, I read that I should drill to take away the head, so that the two pieces will spring open and I would be able to take a needle nose plier to back out the rest of the screw. Does that sound right? When you said going to far, do you mean when I drill out too much of the screw, not leaving enough of it to grip onto to screw it out?
 
Do what Doc has advised. I usually get away with T7 or even a T8 screwdriver for really badly stripped screws. Worst ones I dealt with was jammed and had to be drilled out. Haven't tried the prying method but that should work with patience.
 
Yes, well without the extraction tools, I read that I should drill to take away the head, so that the two pieces will spring open and I would be able to take a needle nose plier to back out the rest of the screw. Does that sound right? When you said going to far, do you mean when I drill out too much of the screw, not leaving enough of it to grip onto to screw it out?

Naw, I meant committing yourself too far down a particular path out of impatience and frustration (I know the feeling), but what you mention is certainly the risk - not having enough post left to grip and twist out (TWSS)...
 
Okay well since I have already drilled half way, would I still be able to use a smaller screwdriver to try screwing it out, or would the surface be too smooth for that to work out?

@dr.chop, I think I kind of understand what you are saying about your last resort method, but to be sure, do you mean to do that when I have already drilled out the head, and slide the blade where the threads are, digging away the threads?
 
avoid
Okay well since I have already drilled half way, would I still be able to use a smaller screwdriver to try screwing it out, or would the surface be too smooth for that to work out?

@dr.chop, I think I kind of understand what you are saying about your last resort method, but to be sure, do you mean to do that when I have already drilled out the head, and slide the blade where the threads are, digging away the threads?
avoid the drill at all costs. if you slip, are off center, or just don't have much experience, you will create a lot more headache than you remedy. screw up the threads at all and you may not fix it... you don't have room to really go larger in diameter, so it's the last resort...and if you do drill, go super slow, but the problem is going too small and the hole only weakens the structure of the screw making it very tough to back out, even if you pop the head off. Too deep and again similar issue, except now it will be a hollow shell stuck in the threads as well, and being a bigger pain. Been there, done that. if you are set on drilling, get a fairly large bit, in relation to the head, drill very slow until the head twists off, then grab the stub with small side cut pliers (not my preferred tool) or needle nose vise grips (my preferred tool) and twist out. It's Uber rare the threads get crossed in the frame, so you should be able to back out the screw. I don't like drilling, just because all the extra work it causes. You will have to open the orbital up to accommodate any pliers, and sometimes that's not to a person's comfort level...
 

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