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Trying to figure out the tools for Linegear pin pusher tool

Noak

I should Work at Oakley
715
1,643
Singapore
My linegear pin pusher came in yesterday and I managed to get the nose rivets out, coupler changed and pressed back the rivets.

However, having read @rmontez thread about his experience, I still couldn't quite figure out how best to utilise the tips and "base" tools...

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So, I managed to use Tip A and Base D to push out and press back the rivets but obviously, Tip A would possibly leave a mark on the rivets. Tip B's flat base seem more appropriate and while I can remove Tip A from the fixture, I can't figure out how to swap Tip A with Tip B. Tip A is at least 2.5x the length of B and had a long spring and C clip right at the end. I would like to point out that Linegear's tutorial showed that they used Tip A in all instances.

Anyone with the same tool can explain how they manage to use Tip B?

It's a no-brainer for bases C and D. The rounded edge of D is less likely to leave a mark on the nose bridge but adding a layer of masking tape is absolutely necessary.

One last thing, to my surprise, it's not that difficult to push out or press in the rivets. Done 2 frames last night without any scratches to the nose bridge, only some marks on the back of the rivets.
 
I couldn't even figure out how to remove tip A! Swapping the bases was pretty straightforward.

I was surprised how easy it was to change the pins too, though I marked the front of them in the process so had to order some new ones. Wasn't too annoyed by that because the orbital gaskets on that pair disintegrated when I took the lenses out so I needed to order more of those too anyway.

Did you use the Linegear couplers too? I did and found them perfectly stiff enough.
 
@Carrera1963 To remove tip A, just turn the top "handle" anticlockwise till the "handle" is out...do note however that there is a small ball bearing inside, between tip A and top "handle"...happy hunting around the house if you aren't careful (at least, that's what I did).

Would have loved to use tip B to press the rivets back!

I didn't use the Linegear couplers as I had quite a fair bit of Oakley's couplers but judging from other linegear coupler's users, I believe it would be a tight fit.
 
@Carrera1963 To remove tip A, just turn the top "handle" anticlockwise till the "handle" is out...do note however that there is a small ball bearing inside, between tip A and top "handle"...happy hunting around the house if you aren't careful (at least, that's what I did).

Would have loved to use tip B to press the rivets back!

I didn't use the Linegear couplers as I had quite a fair bit of Oakley's couplers but judging from other linegear coupler's users, I believe it would be a tight fit.
Yes, fortunately I was working on a cleared surface when I did that so "hunt the ballbearing" didn't take very long!
 
Yeah, I got the handle off and then wasn't clear on how to switch the tips. A appeared to be strongly retained by the spring and, as you said, much longer than B so I left everything as was at that point.

Any hints on this @Linegear Official?
 
[@jdd32 so with tip B at base, sharp tip at top, we placed the frame facing upwards, sharp tip A inside nose bridge hole? With this configuration, I assume we are using the circumference of the tip A to push the nose bridge downwards against flat tip B...is that right?] Ignore this reply as I had gotten the wrong idea! :)
 
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Sharp tip of B is installed into the device. Flat top is where you place the front bridge down for installing pins. Tip A is used to push the pin for installation just like the removal of the pins.
 
So I kinda of misunderstood your explanation. I called tip B a tip but you named it a base instead. Actually, I called it tip as the tool to be placed on top and base as a tool for something to be placed below. Hence tips A and B for top of fixture, base C and D for bottom of fixture.

How did you managed to swap tip A to tip(base) B?
 

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