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thanks!, i am about to trade them for a polished x squared i have, i did not like how they fitThey look legit.
thanks!, i am about to trade them for a polished x squared i have, i did not like how they fit
Thanks so much, any input helps, I will inspect those things when I have them in my hand tomorrow, before I make any trade!Actually I'm not so sure about that... that's not the right box, and the inside of the jet intakes looks off. Otherwise the pics don't really show the parts you need to look at to indentify counterfeits.
Need pics of...
- ends of the earstems
- inside of the nosebridge
- closeup of the orbital break(s)
- hinge screws
- any markings on the earstems
For more info on identifying x-metal authenticity, please see this thread...
http://www.oakleyforum.com/threads/oakley-x-metal-authenticity-checklist.23622/#post-270499
Thanks so much, any input helps, I will inspect those things when I have them in my hand tomorrow, before I make any trade!
Actually I'm not so sure about that... that's not the right box, and the inside of the jet intakes looks off. Otherwise the pics don't really show the parts you need to look at to indentify counterfeits.
Need pics of...
- ends of the earstems
- inside of the nosebridge
- closeup of the orbital break(s)
- hinge screws
- any markings on the earstems
For more info on identifying x-metal authenticity, please see this thread...
http://www.oakleyforum.com/threads/oakley-x-metal-authenticity-checklist.23622/#post-270499
I got that same box with a pair of OCP. Polished Juliets I purchased direct from my local O store. I can see the tip of the earstem and it looks good. For reference, the pair that I got has no markings. No sku and no frame measurements either. If it has a serial, u can verify it at O review.
Listen to what @kronin323 is saying though, he's been in the game way longer and it's all good advice.
I would to thank all for the input, helped out a lot, everything checked out and made the trade...i love these polished juliet!Okay then let me elaborate on those items, if the link is unclear:
- ends of the earstems - flared out = fake, very common indicator
- inside of the nosebridge - should be flat rivet ends, not screws, not flathead screws; very common indicator
- closeup of the orbital break(s) - often these are simulated, or at an incorrect angle; need to study authentic pairs to recognize the difference
- hinge screws - fakes are often hex instead of torx; also real ones are recessed while fakes will often have the screwhead sit above the plane of the earstem
- any markings on the earstems - If they're marked with SKUs they tend to be the wrong ones for the colorway, verifiable at o-review
Good luck!