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2.0 Display lighting overhaul - Step by step

thatoakleyguy

Oakley Expert
610
733
VA
So I got a good deal on a 2.0 tower. Got home and it sat in the garage a month empty. Finally go it inside and had some lighting issues. Here's how I fixed my problems… I didn't see anything like this on here and figured it would help anyone who was having similar issues with this model.

The only electrical background I have is putting in a set of subs, amp, and a new radio in my 96 Jeep back in high school. If I could do this, anyone can.

Here we go.

You'll need a few things, here's the tools I needed.
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These are the bulbs I bought to replace the three fluorescent tubes. (When I bought my 2.0 the guy had 6 NIB LED lights for the ceiling, so I went ahead and replaced those as well just to be sure.
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I ordered new ballasts from Amazon Prime (if you don't have Prime, what's your problem?) and they got here quickly. I ordered one that can handle only one lamp (tube) and another than can handle one or two lamps. These things have diagrams on them that tell you exactly how to wire everything.

One tube ballast

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Two tube ballast

New ballast vs. old ballast
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New lamp holders (explanation below)


Pretty much started by removing all the old ballasts and old lamp holders. I'm gonna be honest, the lamp holders are going to piss you off because not only do they not want to come off, but the new ones don't want to go back on, but don't worry, we have tools for that. And when the old ones come off, they break. And when I took the bulbs out… they broke. Everything broke it seemed, so I just bought a set from amazon. They were $2 each at Lowes, so I got 12 of them for $10.

The new ballasts were different sizes than the originals, so I could not mount them in the same spot or on the same mounting screws. This is where I ended up using the 3M strips to stick the new ballasts to the base of the cabinet. Also took pics of the screw setup on the grounds so I wouldn't mess that up.

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In the corner of the top compartment is where the power comes in to the tower and goes to the lamp ballast and the thing that powers the LED's. I waited until last to completely clip these and tie them in to the new ballast.

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Closer up
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Then I just laid the new ballasts in the top and ran my wires the best way I saw fit. My lamp holders came in a day after the ballasts, so I had everything laid out prior actually cutting the wires to the proper length. I also reused some of the cable covering that on the original wires.

Don't worry, it gets better looking
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Above: Notice the orange wire nuts, this is after I had tied in the power wires (the last thing I did), but I wanted to show how basically all of the factory wiring on the bottom came out.

The new ballasts did not have holes for the ground wire like the OEM ballasts did. A 1/8" drill bit through one of the tabs was perfect and the screw that worked originally now works in these.
AC563FC8-BBB7-46BE-9EE0-19474B89B389_zpseiqw1o35.jpg


Once my wires were laid out I went ahead and put the lamp holders back on. It sucked, none of them went on easily and I actually ended up clipping off the tiny metal tab on the end because it kept digging into the side of my lamp holders. Once they were in I cut my wires to length, stripped my ends, and put them in the holes in the bottom of the lamp holder. There are four slots on the bottom, any slot will work (giggidy).

Before I finished I noticed the lamps did not seem to fit in both ends of the holders properly
B7434A5A-B21E-440A-84B0-D46F488D2059_zpsfcpwzkev.jpg


Then I noticed this gap from where I did not push (force) them back far enough. Insert force/tool
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After that, all that was left was some tidying up with the zip ties, no idea why, nobody will ever see this part.

8112C620-351D-4B36-B432-55C1FD9EB73D_zpsvarmw4bj.jpg


I'm sure I left some things out, but if anyone else reads this and has questions just message me and I can try to help. Hope this helps someone in the future.
 
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