Basic Juliet spec question

[saulsaul]

Should the pins be flush with front surface of the flex coupler?

Just had a re-tune and pins seem flush on the back of the coupler but protrude 1 mm on front side? Normal? Acceptable?

Thanks experts!

 

[Ry.1982]

Typical

 

[Jontoad]

pictures would help. with the rounded top on the pins they always should poke out a bit. if they were flush they would look sunk in with gaps on the edges of the pins.

i see Juliets on ebay all the time with the gaps around the pins cause they aren't pushed in enough.

 

[joecool862]

The pins on all my Juliets protrude slightly in the front and are flush in the back. As long as they are tight and the pins aren't sliding back and forth I'd say you're OK!

 

[saulsaul]

Thanks all. Reassuring.

Can't get a picture in focus but try this. You can see the pin protrudes at the front of the flex about 1mm. My new Juliets (factory fresh ones) are all completely smooth at the front and the back. Since the back of the ones in the pic are flush, it appears they used an overly long pin in the re-tune.

Is getting the front completely flush hard to do?
Do you care about this in your Juliet re-tunes?
Do I need to re-tune my own expectations of what's possible?!

 

[digi7alph0enix]

That's totally normal, and nothing you should worry about. Tbh I've never seen a factory pair that didn't look like that from the front. The only pairs I can recall with smooth rivets/pins were custom made or fakes.

 

[kronin323]

Thanks all. Reassuring.

Can't get a picture in focus but try this. You can see the pin protrudes at the front of the flex about 1mm. My new Juliets (factory fresh ones) are all completely smooth at the front and the back. Since the back of the ones in the pic are flush, it appears they used an overly long pin in the re-tune.

Is getting the front completely flush hard to do?
Do you care about this in your Juliet re-tunes?
Do I need to re-tune my own expectations of what's possible?!

View attachment 120581

I see what you mean - the straight shaft (hello @OakleyFrankFMJ) part of the rivets does protrude a little more than normal. Is that a problem? It's not perfect but it does the trick; up to you whether to accept it...

Is the inside of the nosebridge damaged in any way to explain the protrusion?

 

[saulsaul]

I see what you mean - the straight shaft (hello @OakleyFrankFMJ) part of the rivets does protrude a little more than normal. Is that a problem? It's not perfect but it does the trick; up to you whether to accept it...

Is the inside of the nosebridge damaged in any way to explain the protrusion?

Yeah agree it's not perfect but also that it's not worth pushing back on. No, inside of nosebridge seems completely fine.

The odd thing to me is that the inside of the flex has the pin completely flush, like my factory new Juliets. So surely that means one of two things:

1) The wrong size pin was used in this re-tune (too long a pin) OR
2) There is variance in the width of flex coupler parts by up to 1mm

I'd guess the former but since this re-tune was by Oakley, seems odd.

 

[Carrera1963]

The pair I have with me has the low edge of the dome flush with the nosepiece, as it should be. Interestingly though, the pins do protrude marginally at the back to achieve this. Guess it's better that where it's not seen than protruding at the front. Does look like there is a bit of a margin to play with.

 

[THE X-MAN]

Every pair of frames are different, its either the pin length,how hard they were pressed in,or the nosebridge is a bit thicker or thinner.