I don’t believe so. The hinges just start to wear out over time from collapsing and opening the arms.
@Rick58, you deal w this frame a lot. Is there any way to tighten the arms once they’re worn down? I’m not aware of anything to fix that
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Need a Tool Kit Recommendation
- Thread starter concept2creation
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I don’t believe so. The hinges just start to wear out over time from collapsing and opening the arms.
@Rick58, you deal w this frame a lot. Is there any way to tighten the arms once they’re worn down? I’m not aware of anything to fix that
concept2creation
Oakley Beginner
thanks for the scoop!! i am a little afraid to twist them out since it's already loose. but maybe i will get a little more brave after i watch some youtube tutorials ; )
Here, I made a video for you. Took me 11 secs to remove the arm and reattach it. Hope that helps!
@BoostBear has a method of doing it with a hair dryer. I'll look for his post, in the meantime maybe he''ll catch this and give some advice.
BoostBear
°—°
I can't recall which thread I posted about spreading arms to make the fitment tighter on frames like the NSJ. Though I did find the write up regarding frogskins where you're compressing the fins for a tighter fit.
Loose hinges on Frogskins
Can loose hinges be a problem on some frogskins? Last week I found a pair of Octane yellow frogskins with fire iridium lenses at Norstrom Rack at a really low price. BUT, then hinges were really loose. The hinges on my frogskins have never come loose like this pair. I didn't want to mess with...www.oakleyforum.com
If are attempting to add some more resistance in the motion of arms when swinging open/closed you may be able to achieve that with the following method. Which requires removing the arms from the frame, a hair dryer and a tool intended to wedge between the hinge fins' to as through spread them apart a bit hopefully increasing the resistance. However there's only so much you can spread the arms w/o deforming them or causing issues with refitting them to the frame once spread - the more beat/worn a frame is the lower your chances are on really tightening them given that plastic will wear away/degrade over time making tolerances between piece larger than what they were when they left the factory. At that point the only suggestion I could think of would be to put on addition clear coat as means to create thickness/more resistance.
Keep in mind it's much easier to make frogs tighter as you're just compressing hinge fins, as they are thinner plastic - heat up quicker/take less effort to reform. Where as the frames with hinges like the NSJ have thicker more rigid hinge fins, along with requiring them to be aligned with one another in order to fit back in the frame. I suggest using a plastic (automotive trim removal tool) tool or popsicle-stick/chopsticks, something that has a bit of give to it - ideally something that tapers that way you can slowly increase the distance. If it feels tough spreading the fins apart don't force it, follow up with more heat. Be aware that the fins need to stay within alignment of each other, otherwise you'll run into issues trying to put them back in the frame (you can lightly heat both for 30 sec prior to installing to make both piece a bit more forgiving). Where as using metal has a higher chance of you damaging/breaking the plastic before the tool you're using gives way.
Note: If you are trying to regain that snappy feeling you use to have in open/closing arms - this is unlikely to achieve that. As that snappy action is created by small bump stops or ballooned elbow on the edge of hinge fins interior side (may be visible when arms are closed/folded) once those piece brake/wear off there's no getting them back. Those bits can degrade over time just as part of typical wear, but may also been promoted if you don't regularly clean the hinge area an some bits of dirt get in there causing additional wear. Side note if left out in extreme cold like overnight in your car during winter, until the plastic becomes warm (body heat/car heat) it's more brittle than at typical room temp increasing chances of any bits breaking/cracking off.
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I can't recall which thread I posted about spreading arms to make the fitment tighter on frames like the NSJ. Though I did find the write up regarding frogskins where you're compressing the fins for a tighter fit.
Loose hinges on Frogskins
Can loose hinges be a problem on some frogskins? Last week I found a pair of Octane yellow frogskins with fire iridium lenses at Norstrom Rack at a really low price. BUT, then hinges were really loose. The hinges on my frogskins have never come loose like this pair. I didn't want to mess with...
If are attempting to add some more resistance in the motion of arms when swinging open/closed you may be able to achieve that with the following method. Which requires removing the arms from the frame, a hair dryer and a tool intended to wedge between the hinge fins' to as through spread them apart a bit hopefully increasing the resistance. However there's only so much you can spread the arms w/o deforming them or causing issues with refitting them to the frame once spread - the more beat/worn a frame is the lower your chances are on really tightening them given that plastic will wear away/degrade over time making tolerances between piece larger than what they were when they left the factory. At that point the only suggestion I could think of would be to put on addition clear coat as means to create thickness/more resistance.
Keep in mind it's much easier to make frogs tighter as you're just compressing hinge fins, as they are thinner plastic - heat up quicker/take less effort to reform. Where as the frames with hinges like the NSJ have thicker more rigid hinge fins, along with requiring them to be aligned with one another in order to fit back in the frame. I suggest using a plastic (automotive trim removal tool) tool or popsicle-stick/chopsticks, something that has a bit of give to it - ideally something that tapers that way you can slowly increase the distance. If it feels tough spreading the fins apart don't force it, follow up with more heat. Be aware that the fins need to stay within alignment of each other, otherwise you'll run into issues trying to put them back in the frame (you can lightly heat both for 30 sec prior to installing to make both piece a bit more forgiving). Where as using metal has a higher chance of you damaging/breaking the plastic before the tool you're using gives way.
Note: If you are trying to regain that snappy feeling you use to have in open/closing arms - this is unlikely to achieve that. As that snappy action is created by small bump stops or ballooned elbow on the edge of hinge fins interior side (may be visible when arms are closed/folded) once those piece brake/wear off there's no getting them back. Those bits can degrade over time just as part of typical wear, but may also been promoted if you don't regularly clean the hinge area an some bits of dirt get in there causing additional wear. Side note if left out in extreme cold like overnight in your car during winter, until the plastic becomes warm (body heat/car heat) it's more brittle than at typical room temp increasing chances of any bits breaking/cracking off.
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I've used a similar method on Monster Dogs and NSJs. Works well.But I found a website alternative finder where I can get similar tools in a single article and also read how to use these tools.Similar threads
