Oakley Sunglasses Repair?

[Davemro]

Are those Code Blue or Electric Blue: can't tell from the pics on that light.

Electric blue.

 

[Orion]

There are several products out on the market that say it can repair/bond MOST plastics. I don't know if anyone here who has tried any of them. The issue is oakley frames are made out of their own unique plastic. So the question is whether any of these products will actually work with on this type of plastic. I haven't found anyone who has tried any of the products I've listed below.....

There are 3 that I have researched that I will begin testing on in the weeks to come to repair a pair of frames that broke at the nose bridge. I've listed them in order of cost

1. Loctite Plastic Bonding System
2. Laser Bond
3. Bondic

Laser bond and bondic are supposed to be similar. I did see a youtube video someone posted with, I believe, Laser bond and they were repairing the arm of a pair of sunglasses. They looked like a cheaper pair. The fix did not work on them but the plastic might not have been compatible.

I'm hoping to try the Loctite option soon. I was actually going to drill a tiny hole and reinforce it with a small piece of metal. Once I do I was intending on posting my results

Update:

2 attempts to repair with Loctite Plastic Bonding System Failed.

If I can figure a way to hold the frames to counte-ract the expansion of gorilla glue, I'm going to try that next

 

[N Jenner]

One thing I've done in the past to an old set of eye jacket ear stems that snapped was to take a very thin piece of heat treated spring wire about the same gauge as you find in a small paperclip. Cut a piece about an inch long and then using a drill bit only slightly smaller than the wire and a dremmel drill a hole in each part of the ear stem about a 1/2 inch deep.

Next take a pair of pliers and a torch lighter heat up the piece of wire until it will melt the plastic in the earstem, using the pliers slide it into one of the drilled pieces and then immediately into the other and push together until the plastic meets. Twist the pieces into correct alignment and allow to cool.

Now you will have an internal reinforcement and you can use glue to bond where the plastic meets. Once you slide the rubber back on you will never see it.

Sorry I have no pictures and have since lost the glasses this was done to but if you take your time it is fairly easy and works. One other thing you can do to check alignment before you put the wire in is use a needle that's smaller than the hole you drilled and slide the arm pieces on to make sure of the alignment before you use heat.

Keep in mind that you might only get one shot at this so be sure before you drill lol.

Hope this helps

 

[Webb]

Zap a Gap.

 

[jonnymontreal]

Great thread. Keep us posted

 

[jdd32]

i'd use cyanoacrylate after extensive prep to the joints

 

[THE X-MAN]

Buy another pair....once you break that o matter stuff there is no glue that will reliably hold that break togeather

 

[BoostBear]

Not sure my repair work is worthy of it's own thread, so bumping this old post to show how I repaired my M-Frame Temple tip to which I lost the piece that broke. I had the same idea as @N Jenner suggested, although I didn't have the piece that broke off so I made my own. Using a Flak 2.0 temple I began removing material to the roughly the size of the missing piece using the good temple for reference.

Drilling wasn't a possibility due to the tiny circumference of the M-Frame temple tip. So I ended up cutting a small safety pin to size and torching it hot to burrow into the M's temple an since it's thermoplastic (heat makes it soft) it went in easily. I measured the remaining part of the pin sticking out out of the temple and marked that length on another pin head which I used to make the indent in the fabbed up piece. I merged both pieces together followed by epoxy, let it sit overnight. I took some photos of the repair prior to a final sanding to clean up the connection point.