pennyhoney
Oakley Expert
It is a damn shame I landed with one of this replicas, so here I am to share with you the subtle differences between OEM and replicas in case you are wondering if what you got is o-legit. I have 3 of the original ones all acquired form an authorized Oakley dealer so I have the luxury of comparing. All 3 head I got look alike in terms of weight, height, angle of stance, sheen, composition and the structural bore (hollow core) that is why the replica stood out like a sore thumb.
All pictures shown below are to compare the real one (picture left) vs the replica (displayed on the right side)
I can only speak about the replica I got so this does not represent all replicas out there.
Here are the signs:
1) Cranium size: the original head is smaller compared to the replica (the mold may have enhance the size a little to create a replica form)
2) Sheen color : the original head is matte black vs a slight sheen on the replica (shown on the picture)
3) Lines: the original head has a more defined lines vs a rougher lines on the replica (shown on the picture)
4) Height: the original head stands a tad shorter than the replica ( again, some replica may stand the same height or shorter)
5) What's inside? If you still can't tell the difference between an OEM and replica then look inside or underneath the head: the original has 4 circular felt paper on the 12,3,6 and 9 o'clock underneath the head, this maybe there to prevent surface scratching or rocking of the mannequin if the surface is not entirely flat. Its easy to add this felt paper to a replica because they are dirt cheap.
6) The Bore: the 9 o'clock of the OEM is slighly thicker than the rest ( see picture). The replica has a thicker and darker inside bore than an OEM
7) Weight: All OEM stands at 4 pounds, 2.5 ounces- period!
8) Angle of stance: the OEM stands at 0 degrees flat and the replica I got is slightly off to its right which is really annoying
Hope this helps all you rooks and crooks! Know what you are selling or buying. Avoid being labelled as dishonest and price them fair, appropriately or accordingly
All pictures shown below are to compare the real one (picture left) vs the replica (displayed on the right side)
I can only speak about the replica I got so this does not represent all replicas out there.
Here are the signs:
1) Cranium size: the original head is smaller compared to the replica (the mold may have enhance the size a little to create a replica form)
2) Sheen color : the original head is matte black vs a slight sheen on the replica (shown on the picture)
3) Lines: the original head has a more defined lines vs a rougher lines on the replica (shown on the picture)
4) Height: the original head stands a tad shorter than the replica ( again, some replica may stand the same height or shorter)
5) What's inside? If you still can't tell the difference between an OEM and replica then look inside or underneath the head: the original has 4 circular felt paper on the 12,3,6 and 9 o'clock underneath the head, this maybe there to prevent surface scratching or rocking of the mannequin if the surface is not entirely flat. Its easy to add this felt paper to a replica because they are dirt cheap.
6) The Bore: the 9 o'clock of the OEM is slighly thicker than the rest ( see picture). The replica has a thicker and darker inside bore than an OEM
7) Weight: All OEM stands at 4 pounds, 2.5 ounces- period!
8) Angle of stance: the OEM stands at 0 degrees flat and the replica I got is slightly off to its right which is really annoying
Hope this helps all you rooks and crooks! Know what you are selling or buying. Avoid being labelled as dishonest and price them fair, appropriately or accordingly