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Wearing NO temple shocks

I think a common misconception is that "Factory Tight" means "Rigid as f*ck". Anytime i bought an X-Metal from an O-store or direct from HQ, there is give in the frame.. As titanium doesn't have any give, the flex couplers are designed to allow the frame to flex and then using the temple shocks help adjust for head size.

I'm sure most of you know this, but then again, there's the guys here that are sending them into 3rd party tuning services and they come back as if they wedged a rock where the flex coupler is supposed to go.

Oh and i'm speaking from experience as i just bought a pair that had an aftermarket tune (won't name names) and it's so tight that i can't wear it. So it just sits to look pretty. I'm contemplating sending it in to get re-tuned by someone of my choosing.

For some people, a really tight tune is good. Tunes should almost be based on head size. I have had a couple that are too tight, as well. But others would probably find them comfortable and secure...
 
For some people, a really tight tune is good. Tunes should almost be based on head size. I have had a couple that are too tight, as well. But others would probably find them comfortable and secure...

I can agree with that argument, but that's what the temple shocks are for. The nosebridge is supposed to flex. That's by design. The temples shocks push the arms in. There's 15, 25, 50, and 75.

However, anyone using a 75 on a juliet must look like this:

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No offense to anyone actually using 75 on a Juliet :behindsofa:
 
I can agree with that argument, but that's what the temple shocks are for. The nosebridge is supposed to flex. That's by design. The temples shocks push the arms in. There's 15, 25, 50, and 75.

However, anyone using a 75 on a juliet must look like this:

View attachment 537096

No offense to anyone actually using 75 on a Juliet :behindsofa:

Ha! Very valid points, sir. I guess the t shox do fine tune the fit best...
 
As far as I know, there are 2 methods to reverse the overtuned flex bridge. For XS , just simply loosen the bridge screws by quarter turns till u achieve your desired flexibility. Second is to remove the inserts in between the flex coupler rubbers.
I have seen kinda like abs very thin clear plastic inserts in between the coupler rubbers. Think this supports the LG rubbers by not stressing them too much thus making the coupler rubbers last longer.
Removing these inserts will normally allow the bridge to play like it had just been out from factory.
Just for info, I am using a precision screw numbered 1.3 instead of the hex equivalent.Hope my little contribution helps.

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Last edited:
Awesome - thank you @SEAN WAYNE!

The loosening of the screw only un-screwed the nose bridge from my super tight piece.

Sounds like the shim is my culprit!
Has anyone ever had to sand down the thickness of the coupler?
It seems the OXM couplers are thicker than the LineGear couplers, and How do they compare to new OEM versions?

75 T-Shocks?! Is that for a child’s face? :)
 

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