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SpecialAdvisor’s Mad Labs - Mars Leather Mods Plus

My first pair of X-Squared courtesy of my O-Teammate @Beardo0628!

They were in superb shape but had picked up a scuff or two during their service…as they should! So I took out the lenses (are these things blue or purple!?!?), stripped the rubber set, and popped em into the sandblast box. I think they “were” titanium finish?

Now they are as fresh as a newly buzzed-cut, fresh pressed BDUed, and Spit-Polish-Booted, Day One Soldier! Back to X-Metal and there they’ll stay.

I have Linegear Tsuyakeshi Matte Black Lenses and a Sand-Gray Rubber Set in route. I think that is going to be my personal default for my stock X-Metal of whatever frame style. I dig it.

Ah the smell of fresh X-Metal in the morning! Hey @THE X-MAN! Smells like Victory! Don’t it?



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Soooo…a convoluted explanation of where we are now.

Template Mk. 1 was taken from skinned leather from a Chinese knockoff MARS Jordan. Lots of micro-trimming was required after it was laid on the frame…but it was a good start.

Template Mk. 2 was from an honest to goodness OEM MARS Jordan. It required even more trimming after it was laid on the frame. To be fair, the nuclear glue they used all but malformed the leather as I tried to remove it.

So how to keep moving forward? One of my best attempts was the Coyote-Whipsnake Crater. Mostly due to the post processing of micro trimming. It fit snug and even and clean front and back.

So what I did today was to skin that frame (the leather was only on the frame what? Six months or so…and I had used glue stick so not too horrible to remove). The already closely trimmed leather “should” make for the closest template to date. Now we have MARS Template Mk. 3.

Today I conditioned the Rattler so it’s nice and supple. Tomorrow we shall see…👽🤙

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The Rattler is all cut out and prepped for stitching later.

Initially I was punching the templates for stitching holes. Seems to work out better if I lay the hide against the frame and mark with a pen and then punch it.

I came up with another mini hack that helps, especially with these busy patterned hides where it’s hard to see the holes amidst the pattern. I run a small line of waxed thread thru each set that I can use as a guide and pull out afterwards.

To be continued…👽🤙

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SpecialAdvisor Juliet Mk. 1 in Rustoleum Colorshift Paint Green-Copper (looks more green-gold to me), Linegear Green/Gold - NXT® EMBEDDED Non-Polarized lenses, and Linegear Olive Drab Rubber set.

This frame is basically a soup sandwich. An item by item how “Not to paint” a frame. I admit it…I need more patience. Need better paint stand usage, let it dry longer between stages, etc. Ended up with multiple dings, dents and one large chip while putting in a lens 🤦‍♂️

I’ll still give it the wear it deserves! Then back to the drawing board!

We live and learn! 😜🤙

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And that is why the human race is where it is, constantly evolving, from trying and mistakes, if you ain’t bleeding you ain’t trying 😵🥳
 
This poor ole Valve 1.0 Beater is the little frame that “might” at best. It started out warped wide. Either it got stepped on or someone with a huge melon was wearing it. The right side seemed to be the most warped. Also the right side would not hold a lens. Lastly one of the holes where the temple stems lock into the frame was chipped completely thru the edge of the frame. All good. Nowhere to go but up or into spare parts!

I was probably too harsh on it…I used a heat gun on high (with a trashed lens in place on the warped orbital). The lens now stays in. I also got the right side more towards what I consider normal. I compared it to another Valve 1.0 for how far to mold it inwards. I think I might have got it a bit too hot as I noted some minor strain lines.

A bit unorthodox but I sorted the hole by super gluing a tooth pick into the hole on the frame. Filled the small gap with more super glue. Let it dry, snipped and sanded it, then used a tiny Dremel to re-drill the detent hole.

So it might be able to see some service. Worth it to give it a bit of paint.

We shall see! 😏

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