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  1. bbell6

    bbell6 Oakley Beginner

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    I guess it was just a matter of time. I finally stripped the head on a T6 screw. It annoys me quite a bit, since I was just trying to back the screw out for the first time on the only pair of x-metals that I've bought BNIB. I'm not sure the screw even budged, and with very little pressure the head stripped. Luckily it was my least favorite pair (Half Xs). However, there doesn't seem to be anyone selling replacement screws for this model on Ebay. Is anyone aware of a source for the Half X orbital screws? It only has threads on about half of the screw.
     
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  2. BriP

    BriP X-Metalhead

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    haha.. no way dude. only Juliet and romeo1 screws are available.. you can try Oakley directly since the halfx is newer but chances are slim. I friggin hate torx screws. i tighten all of mine really slack so they dont seize up.. that said, one of my penny's has a nearly-gone hinge screw which annoys me to no end. and is similarly irreplaceable.
     
  3. bbell6

    bbell6 Oakley Beginner

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    I was afraid of that. I guess I'll just have to try some small screws from McMaster Carr. Maybe Linegear will start making them.
     
  4. BriP

    BriP X-Metalhead

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    just make sure the thread is right. that's the worry.. you don't wanna mess up the threading in the frame
     
  5. xmetalmaniac

    xmetalmaniac Made of Metal Premium Member Lifetime Member

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    I have had luck swapping the half x lenses without removing the screws. They pop out and in without an issue. I wouldn't try this method with the Romeo 2. But it has been successful with my Half X
     
  6. bbell6

    bbell6 Oakley Beginner

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    With regards to Juliet screws I've read 2-56 was the threading (a thread in the forum and Lingear). Wonder if its the same threading for the Half X?

    If I buy something from McMaster Carr I might as well try to find some screws that will work for the Juliet and Penny orbitals too. Is length as crucial? Lingear list their screws as 5mm which converts to .19685 of and inch and a 3/16th socket head is .1875 of an inch.

    You can get 10 mil spec 18-8 stainless screws for $3.24 or you can get regular 18-8 stainless screws 100 for $3.96. Both are relatively inexpensive, but you get 10 times as many (100 vs 10) if you don't get the mil spec. Wonder if the mil spec is worth it?
     
  7. bbell6

    bbell6 Oakley Beginner

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    In the future that sounds like a plan.

    Upon further inspection of my frame it appears I loosened the screw just a little and now the lens is loose. So I guess I'll have to get this one out.
     
  8. Rustpot

    Rustpot M Frame Lover Premium Member

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    Go with 316 Stainless, 25 for the same-ish price. The Mil Spec is for passivation, which will further remove carbon and iron content from the surface to help avoid rust and other corrosion. If this were a salt-water application I'd say go with the passivated fasteners.

    316 is a higher grade than normal 18-8 as far as corrosion resistance goes, and you don't need an expensive passivated screw for this instance. 18-8 should work, but 316 should handle better over time with skin oils and sweat.

    The only thing to keep in mind is that fasteners are almost universally chosen to be softer than the material they're threading into when it's metal-metal. You want the screw to fail before stripping the hole its going into. I don't know what the original screws were to be able to tell you if they skipped going to a nice stainless vs a plated steel for this reason.
     
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  9. Vlad Mp

    Vlad Mp Oakley Beginner

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    my xx lost a screw .. found a pair on ebay a couple of months ago
     
  10. tedinblack

    tedinblack Oakley Beginner

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    I've had two torx screw heads strip from my Half X's. I was able to get them out and swapped them into my beater pair. What I did was use my dremel to cut a slot into the screw, making it basically a slotted screw. Still useable, and you can't tell unless you look really close.