Oakley Twenty FMJ Repair - Which adhesive?

[SirReal]

I do not have experience repairing glasses but i do have 20 years of experience building and converting plastic miniatures ! (used to work for Games Workshop)

What I read here is very close to the perfect solution in my opinion.... use a tiny dot of paint or ink on one side of the break, put the two parts against each other so the dot is in the same place on both sides .... drill the holes in the same place ... use a metal pin or some metal wire (can go as small as paperclip size if the frame is thin, and glue it in the holes as you glue the frame back together (make sure the hole is slightly wider than the pin do glue will fit around the pin) ... this gives a much larger surface to glue and even if the plastic breaks, the pin will still hold the plastic together ... if you use a pin that is thicker and stronger than paperclips then it will also provide more strength to the frame in that spot and it ill bend less so it will no longer break in that spot since it's now stronger than the rest of the frame.

This technique used to be applied all the time to metal miniatures because no glue would hold certain parts together because the area to glue was too small and the weight of the part too heavy. (Imagine having to glue a tiny arm on a 2 inch model but the arm is also holding a huge hammer or shield and weighs more than most of my Oakleys do ).

Thanks! That sounds exactly what I had in mind to try, but the devil is in the details, and I am glad to get your input, and to hear that this could work. I have just gotten hold of a pin vice and micro drill set, so that I can drill the holes by hand. I may try to take a thin nail, cut the ends off with my Dremel, and use it as you've described. That will prevent flexing somewhat in the repair zone, as it'll be stiffer than a paperclip or wire.

I know that to some, this may seem like overkill, but I do love a good project.

I'll try to document the repair job, assuming it works as planned.

 

[386MFrames]

Thanks! That sounds exactly what I had in mind to try, but the devil is in the details, and I am glad to get your input, and to hear that this could work. I have just gotten hold of a pin vice and micro drill set, so that I can drill the holes by hand. I may try to take a thin nail, cut the ends off with my Dremel, and use it as you've described. That will prevent flexing somewhat in the repair zone, as it'll be stiffer than a paperclip or wire.

I know that to some, this may seem like overkill, but I do love a good project.

I'll try to document the repair job, assuming it works as planned.

Keep us updated!

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

 

[Bo™]

Thanks! That sounds exactly what I had in mind to try, but the devil is in the details, and I am glad to get your input, and to hear that this could work. I have just gotten hold of a pin vice and micro drill set, so that I can drill the holes by hand. I may try to take a thin nail, cut the ends off with my Dremel, and use it as you've described. That will prevent flexing somewhat in the repair zone, as it'll be stiffer than a paperclip or wire.

I know that to some, this may seem like overkill, but I do love a good project.

I'll try to document the repair job, assuming it works as planned.

Overkill ? Nah ... when you do something, might as well do it right ! .. looking forward to seeing the results

 

[mjt42]

if you can make use of this, its yours. i am in the uk so say $20 to cover shipping? (assuming you are us based).

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

[interestingfellow]

in my teens I had a new pair snap like that inside the rubber.

You can get tiny drill bits at harborfreight.
I used piano wire that was thin enough (rc pushrod material) (you could use 1mm? carbon fiber rod from rc shop, but I havent tried that)
And I used 2 part epoxy (like at harborfreight)

You want the whole to be slightly larger than the rod you're using to reattach them for two reasons. This will allow epoxy to bond the rod to the nylon, as well as allow you to line up the ear stem properly. Drill your hole, mix your epoxy, coat your rod, assemble, let dry, and clean up the excess with an exacto knife.

This lasted years for me, and I actually ended up doing this again for another spot on the same ear stem as well as the opposite ear stem.

YMMV

 

[SiRacer420]

if you can make use of this, its yours. i am in the uk so say $20 to cover shipping? (assuming you are us based).

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

That's a hell of an offer right there. I'd take the man up on it.

 

[silverstar189]

That's a hell of an offer right there. I'd take the man up on it.

Seconded. Using hot pinning to repair something like this as suggested is difficult as it isn't easy to drill the two holes so they line up exactly. If you did try and repair, two part epoxy would make an excellent bond, Sikaflex window sealer also works wonders providing you key the surface first.

 

[OakleyFrankFMJ]

That's a hell of an offer right there. I'd take the man up on it.

I concur

 

[grimm]

That is a match made in heaven right there. You can now either go blue or green. Try to make a full set out of the surplus parts. Use JB Weld, it can even glue the gates of hell shut.

 

[openboater]

I just broke an arm on a pair of Zeros. They cracked under the ear rubber and I was gonna use JB weld also. The trick of putting a thin metal rod to give the break strength is pretty crafty. If someone happens to have a Zero arm in black let me know. Pretty sure they are first generations. Send my any more tips please.