OXM coupler??

[THE X-MAN]

I was wondering who would get that 1st

 

[scienergy]

I was wondering who would get that 1st

A classic! Thank you for including your comments and links to your products @Linegear Japan & @THE X-MAN. No OXM-centric thread is complete without your presence. <3

I'm happy to answer any questions folks have about OXM products or services if it's allowed here.

 

[Linegear Japan]

A classic! Thank you for including your comments and links to your products @Linegear Japan & @THE X-MAN. No OXM-centric thread is complete without your presence. <3

I'm happy to answer any questions folks have about OXM products or services if it's allowed here.

Your product is good OXM @scienergy ... it (the flex coupler) works great for loose frame.

Yeah that is the power of sponsorship, folk always tag us and we never missed the trend... (no pun intended) always welcome and happy to see fellow business contribute to OF. I think @OakleyBoss concur

 

[Dukeman24]

Thanks a lot guys...having 3 of BY far my favorite sponsors providing assistance on one of my threads is AWESOME!! Thanks @THE X-MAN , @Linegear Japan , @scienergy !!!

 

[scienergy]

Juliet #J154482 was a plug and play repair this morning, no trimming of the flex couplers required.

Thankfully the OXM flex couplers start large else this now very tight first generation frame would have been more loose after repair using anything smaller.

I love finishing up a job and reflecting on how many years this pair of glasses are going to be on someone's face, protecting one of the most sensitive parts of their body on a daily basis. It's humbling and uplifting to have the trust of so many people across the world.

Jannard & Co. created something special and unique designed to last generational lifetimes. A small army of people across the globe ensure this legacy will continue!!

X Metal Lives!!!!

 

[scienergy]

On deck this morning is a last-generation Plasma Juliet with no serial number. Since these are newer frames that are smaller in the cavity, this pair requires trimming of the flex coupler for a proper tight fit. Here's how I trimmed the flex couplers for perfect fit and optimal tightness. You see I trimmed off about halfway through the "F". Use large nail clipper to snip off little slivers until you've reached proper fit for your unique frame.

 

[Ti man]

On deck this morning is a last-generation Plasma Juliet with no serial number. Since these are newer frames that are smaller in the cavity, this pair requires trimming of the flex coupler for a proper tight fit. Here's how I trimmed the flex couplers for perfect fit and optimal tightness. You see I trimmed off about halfway through the "F". Use large nail clipper to snip off little slivers until you've reached proper fit for your unique frame.

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So, does that leave the end open or do you kind of trim at an angle? And does the f stand for front of glasses or towards face?

 

[SiRacer420]

So, does that leave the end open or do you kind of trim at an angle? And does the f stand for front of glasses or towards face?

It’ll still be fully enclosed. They’re thick at the base.

That’s exacty how I do them on newer frames. Older ones like @scienergy said usually just go in fine but no two are the same.

 

[scienergy]

Trim straight as you can, but don't go past the "flags" of the "F" because then you will be getting in to the cavity of the coupler. If you stay inside the "F" with your cut, you will still be left with a solid end. If you accidentally cut off the entire end, the couplers are trash and you need to start over with new couplers. Nail clippers work great for micro-cutting after I shear off the first slice with large leather shears. I also keep a file handy to file down the ends or corners if needed. I never trim/shave the thin walls of top/bottom sides for any frame. Use Purell Gel hand sanitizer liberally for lubrication. Place the FC on the orbital tab first with F-facing front, then slide in to the bridge cavity for measure/install.

Juliet Trimming:

• If the tabs of the orbitals have sharp squared corners (older frames), little to no trimming of the end will be needed.

• If the tabs of the orbitals have smooth rounded corners (newer frames), some to much trimming of the end will be needed but not past the flags of the F.

X-Squared Trimming:

• Tends to need about half the "F" trimmed like what you see above, no other trims required.

XX X Metal Trimming:

• The most tricky to repair. Up to 3/4 the "F" end trimmed off careful not to pass the flags of the F. May require careful trimming of the front open side of the FC depending on the age of the frame (older frames in particular may need trimming). Juliet orbital tab principals apply also to the XX orbital tabs (rounded vs squared .. newer vs older) The 2000 XX (serial) frames are very different than the 2008 XX (non-serial) frames in terms of sizing at the micro meter level, more variance than any other frame.

Penny Trimming:

• Up to half the "F" end trimmed off, sometimes no trim at all. The lower corner of the FC needs to be snipped off on both front & back sides equal cut. Similar to R2 trim.

Romeo 2 Trimming:

• Up to half the "F" end trimmed off, sometimes no trim at all. The lower corner of the FC needs to be snipped off on both front & back sides equal cut. Similar to Penny trim.

Mars Trimming:

• Up to Half the "F" end no other trims required.

The "F" does stand for "Front" akin to original flex couplers that used the same identification system.

 

[Ti man]

Thanks @scienergy and @SiRacer420 . Great information! I think this would be a good sticky thread.