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What Are You Driving ?

I'd actually prefer the super over the turbo. From driving turbo cars the boost lag gets really annoying when trying to run a car hard in corners and shift. And powershifting or feathering the clutch with power on to keep the revs up are both good ways to wear things out quick. I'm all about low end torque over sheer horsepower now. For a daily car anyway
You should be in the gear that you want to be in by the time that you enter a turn whether NA, s/c or turbo. Any way that you slice the induction apple it's still the same- you don't want to unsettle the suspension with a gear change mid-corner.

There's lots of ways to get a turbo to spool up lower in the RPM range like a smaller turbo, sequential turbos, etc. I've been driving/ tracking turbos since I bought my 1984 SVO in 1985- which I still own- along with two other turbocars. My NSX was s/c when I bought it, it had a Paxton NOVI 2000 back in the day but once I got used to 384whp and wanted more the next step was turbo.

I would agree that s/c is a better fit for you and your driving style but speaking of extra wear and tear, with a s/c you've added yet another belt-driven accessory that adds stress on the motor. You're a super bright guy so I know that you're already aware that a s/c subtracts HP through parasitic drag which it returns plus a little extra, but it can be argued that certain wear and tear aspects are less with a turbo because it is exhaust-driven rather than belt-driven.

But as long as you're doing some form of forced induction you're doing something better than stock.

It takes a lot more throttle to spin the crank on the supercharged version when taking off from a stop imo.

That drag thing...
 
My mother got the paceman s and it has zero lag compared to my Subaru LOL. I was blown away by the response of their little 1.6 twin scroll turbo powerplant. My friend has the older jcw mini supercharged and the paceman feels much quicker on the throttle. It takes a lot more throttle to spin the crank on the supercharged version when taking off from a stop imo.
I'm not talking specifically Mini's. I like the turbos over the supers, although getting power out of the R53 platform is a LOT easier than with the R56. On small 4's and 6's supers don't make as much sense since they require the engine to push them. Turbos are easier to run on small powerplants, don't rob as much fuel, etc.

My Mini's turbo is miles better than my Volvo and the Saab I used to drive. Much less noticeable through the powerband, and no big lurch when boost kicks in, but it's still there and the car drives a LOT differently when you don't let the boost fall out. Shifting around 3500 revs you can hear the wastegate dump if you clutch as you letoff, and even though you'll catch the shift above where the turbo kicks in you're still nowhere near fully spooled. Shift again at 3500 but keep on juuuust a touch of throttle (easier with the sport button on) to keep the BOV shut and use the syncros to pull the revs down while you keep the foot on? Instant response into the next shift, and the car is loads of fun to drive around town. The automatics are much better at managing this and are faster for people who can't/won't work the car like you need to with a stick.

I'd really like my next car to be naturally aspirated, small, and above 250hp.
 
You should be in the gear that you want to be in by the time that you enter a turn whether NA, s/c or turbo. Any way that you slice the induction apple it's still the same- you don't want to unsettle the suspension with a gear change mid-corner.

There's lots of ways to get a turbo to spool up lower in the RPM range like a smaller turbo, sequential turbos, etc. I've been driving/ tracking turbos since I bought my 1984 SVO in 1985- which I still own- along with two other turbocars. My NSX was s/c when I bought it, it had a Paxton NOVI 2000 back in the day but once I got used to 384whp and wanted more the next step was turbo.

I would agree that s/c is a better fit for you and your driving style but speaking of extra wear and tear, with a s/c you've added yet another belt-driven accessory that adds stress on the motor. You're a super bright guy so I know that you're already aware that a s/c subtracts HP through parasitic drag which it returns plus a little extra, but it can be argued that certain wear and tear aspects are less with a turbo because it is exhaust-driven rather than belt-driven.

But as long as you're doing some form of forced induction you're doing something better than stock.
Wear and tear on the engine isn't nearly as much when trying to run them ragged. It all depends on the setup though. I'm not coming from a racing direction, just driving around town like I'm in the WRC :p

I'd like to hear your thoughts on getting the turbo to spool. I drive my car for fun around town, but I'm still only cruising at 2-3000 RPM most of the time. I don't really downshift into high revs - as soon as I get into that habit I'm going to be burning gas twice as fast. Right now I'm getting around 32 mpg and I have to fill up once a week (400mi/12.5 gallons).
 
I'm not coming from a racing direction, just driving around town like I'm in the WRC
Good luck in the WRC, I'm in the Super GT series! ;)
The new Ford Tremor pick-up uses a twin turbo 3.5L V-6, I'm certain that if Ford can do it BMW can as well:
  • 420 lb.-ft. of torque at 2,500 rpm (seems to fit your RPM range to a tee)
  • Twin independent variable camshaft timing for improved performance and fuel economy
  • Up to 90 percent peak torque available from 1,700 rpm to 5,000 rpm (also in your sweet spot)
  • 365 horsepower at 5,000 rpm on regular fuel
So it appears that twin turbos and variable valve timing puts turbo power further down in the RPM range where you'd like it.
 
The Tremor is going to be a $40,000 truck. I don't know about you, but if I'm buying a truck it's to do truck things and I'd be concerned about hauling stuff and scratching the paint in a $40,000 vehicle.

I'd rather buy a $30,000 car to tool around in and a $10,000 truck to use sparingly.
 
The Tremor is going to be a $40,000 truck
I get that but you asked:
I'd like to hear your thoughts on getting the turbo to spool. I drive my car for fun around town, but I'm still only cruising at 2-3000 RPM most of the time.
The engine technology that Ford is putting into a truck seems to be the engine technology that you asked about for your Mini. You asked "how?" I showed you how.
This is my truck, 4 years ago I paid for it what they are asking for a Tremor today:
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I'm probably not a Tremor candidate since I'm already at 550HP/550TQ. "But you can't haul stuff around." True. When I can't haul it in the truck it goes in the Space Shuttle:
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After 27 years and 228,000 miles of youth select soccer, summer travelling baseball, high school golf matches, raising three sons and more it still starts every time and does everything that I ask. And it's such a pleasant vehicle with incredible visibility that I still smile every time that I drive it. A truly innovative vehicle that was ahead of its time with two sunroofs, front and rear AC and the engine sits beneath the front seats.
 
2008 BMW 320d 2.0L Turbo Diesel. This bad boy gets 52 MPG on the highway. I moved to the UK with this car already picked out. I only got to drive it for 2 years and just sold it before heading back to the US. It was a quick car for a 2.0L and got AWESOME gas mileage to boot. I wanted to bring it back to the US with me. I miss it already.
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I get that but you asked:

The engine technology that Ford is putting into a truck seems to be the engine technology that you asked about for your Mini. You asked "how?" I showed you how.
This is my truck, 4 years ago I paid for it what they are asking for a Tremor today:
I thought we were talking rev control and clutch techniques.

I get that I could change out turbos, tune, and mod. I'm not looking to sink too much into this car. I am on the fence on whether to replace it next summer.
 
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