Oakley X-Metal Authenticity Checklist

[Sc'O'user]

Thanks @kronin323 for all your input and useful tips
Thanks @BHarry for taking the time to do the weighing.... It will be extremely interesting to see the results

 

[BHarry]

I was going to weigh a stripped-down OEM frame and a fake one, but I do not think that is necessary. I have weighed all of my Juliets and they were 42 g (+/- 1 g for a couple frames). The fake weighed in at a hefty 56 g! The lenses were only 1 g different as well. So if your frames weigh 50 g+... they are fake! (At least this fake)

 

[BHarry]

I thought I would add a few pics of the fake coin versus the real coin. The fake just doesn't look as good and doesn't have the same finish quality. I only have the inner box but it looks fairly authentic.

 

[joecool862]

I thought I would add a few pics of the fake coin versus the real coin. The fake just doesn't look as good and doesn't have the same finish quality. I only have the inner box but it looks fairly authentic.
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Dude, this was awesome! Thank you for taking the time to do this comparison for us!

 

[motoGP_fanatic]

I thought I would add a few pics of the fake coin versus the real coin. The fake just doesn't look as good and doesn't have the same finish quality. I only have the inner box but it looks fairly authentic.
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I kept my fake coin for those curious people who can't keep their hands off my Oakley stuff, I take it out for them to hold and satisfy their curiousity, make them feel I am not overly protective, everybody happy lolz

 

[Sc'O'user]

I was going to weigh a stripped-down OEM frame and a fake one, but I do not think that is necessary. I have weighed all of my Juliets and they were 42 g (+/- 1 g for a couple frames). The fake weighed in at a hefty 56 g! The lenses were only 1 g different as well. So if your frames weigh 50 g+... they are fake! (At least this fake)
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Thanks very much for taking the time to weigh the items, you have confirmed what I suspected, and as the fakes get closer to the originals in terms of looks they will never be able to get close in terms of weight, I'm sure a lot of people will be getting the scales out when they view this thread..... Again @BHarry thanks very much buddy

 

[kronin323]

Really, as shown in this thread and elsewhere, once you know what to look for it's pretty easy to identify fake x-metals; they all have differences in the frame shape, most notably flared earstems, and apparently that was deliberate, for some reason.

The exception is fake XS; as mentioned earlier in this thread, the frame shape is identical to the originals. There are some subtle differences, but the best indicator is the nosebridge screws being flathead on fakes and hex on authentic frames. And hands-on there should also be a weight difference compared to OEM.

Fake neXt-metal frames, though, are a different story - they're so good they might be partly or completely "fourth shift" specials... You have to look at the lenses, the rubbers, and the packaging...

 

[motoGP_fanatic]

Really, as shown in this thread and elsewhere, once you know what to look for it's pretty easy to identify fake x-metals; they all have differences in the frame shape, most notably flared earstems, and apparently that was deliberate, for some reason.

The exception is fake XS; as mentioned earlier in this thread, the frame shape is identical to the originals. There are some subtle differences, but the best indicator is the nosebridge screws being flathead on fakes and hex on authentic frames. And hands-on there should also be a weight difference compared to OEM.

Fake neXt-metal frames, though, are a different story - they're so good they might be partly or completely "fourth shift" specials... You have to look at the lenses, the rubbers, and the packaging...

As far as I've seen fake in actual, original X-Metal Badman and Madman frame with translucent/ semi transparent is a very good indicator to know fake since the fake only has the black colored plastic part. Basically they have weird colorways. The frame plasma color is the best copy.... but it seems that the orbital is thicker. The color of the lens of fake will never be close to OEM, the sapphire and ruby are copied but are very different. Also there are lens that is not polarized. If you are inspecting a unit if it is fake, try to open and close the earstem... the hinge is always poorly made, and are very loose to a point that sometimes stem does not even cross and touch each other.

(sorry, I wasn't happy the way I was able to compose this reply, seems like I'm ranting without direction.)

 

[OakleyFrankFMJ]

 

[Wicked]

This thread is not 4 years old @OakleyFrankFMJ what are you doing bumping it?