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Consolidated Oakley Watches Real or Fake Thread (Is this Oakley Watch Fake?)

Dbninc

Something Clever
Premium Member
Lifetime Member
1,396
673
North of NYC
I’m pretty sure this is fake, but I have zero Oakley watch experience. So just in case, legit check please?

E36FC4A8-4B17-4ACB-B14E-AD33E068BE62.jpeg

5DE118BC-DCA1-41E6-AD56-ECA4F21D7FAD.jpeg

9B4C1E04-051A-4F36-904F-E61AE032988B.jpeg

3F86C1D8-F020-4A3E-A23B-A549498C6799.jpeg
 

zwc0442

El Zach
Premium Member
Lifetime Member
3,216
743
Sunny San Diego
So I got this used Hollow Point for a reasonable price with no accessories. The weight of the watch seems right (much lighter than my GMT or Judge i.e.) so I suppose it is made of titanium (or something similar whatever that might be).

What I find strange is the the black O logo on the dial, the positioning of "MADE" on just outside of the dial (a bit to far left alligned) and the cron seems a little bit different from what I saw on pictures here at the forum (could be an issue of light or something as well) View attachment 825268View attachment 825269View attachment 825270View attachment 825271View attachment 825272View attachment 825273View attachment 825273View attachment 825274


What do you think?
This is probably too late but I believe this is a fake. I've only ever ran into 1 fake hp before they're alot harder to spot. But the poorly fitting part of the clasp cover is a sign. Also looking at the links from the side you can see around the screws the link isn't a perfectly even circle. They're misshapen. If you pull a couple link screws out and look at the threads that's another sign. An original will have a very fine thread. The fake I saw had coarse threaded link screws. Another way to check is to take the case back off. The chronograph buttons on a real on are held on with a threaded stud that acts as the pin to press the button on the movement. The fake has c clips holding the button in.
 

Stanley_O

Oakley Enthusiast
221
203
Rostock
This is probably too late but I believe this is a fake. I've only ever ran into 1 fake hp before they're alot harder to spot. But the poorly fitting part of the clasp cover is a sign. Also looking at the links from the side you can see around the screws the link isn't a perfectly even circle. They're misshapen. If you pull a couple link screws out and look at the threads that's another sign. An original will have a very fine thread. The fake I saw had coarse threaded link screws. Another way to check is to take the case back off. The chronograph buttons on a real on are held on with a threaded stud that acts as the pin to press the button on the movement. The fake has c clips holding the button in.
@zwc0442 indeed it is too late now (time to refund has passed by far and I already confirmed the deal back then due to the feedback here) - should have trusted my gutts on this one... after checking here I assumed I was to picky/reading to much into the details I spotted... thx for the feedback ... hopefully this will help others to not get scammed.
 

mustangjt

Oakley Expert
Premium Member
615
623
Well add me to the list of people scammed by YFG. What I thought was a grail is nothing more than a knockoff. Now that you’ve laid out all the telltales @zwc0442, I can’t believe I ignored all the differences up until now.

Definitely harder to spot at first compared to MM fakes, but when comparing side by side, it’s really obvious.

26D608D8-A21E-44FC-9D6A-1B5C2E039195.jpeg

C - Clip securing pushers on Fake


0E7DFD14-2B13-4DBF-A269-8CEC465FDFEB.jpeg

Threaded pusher on Real HP

21321E97-343B-40A8-96D9-888F1FC7C1E9.jpeg

Fake HP has curvy (polished) O logo

550A15AC-0A86-425F-B33E-AD0DE447C659.jpeg

Real HP has a flat (Matte) O logo

D1AE4FB9-D2D1-4B39-AD0D-29AFDD90A26B.jpeg

7C73B2AB-9D87-4ECC-93D1-65642E1F1F28.jpeg

Coarse thread screws on Fake. Fine thread screws on real HP.

2FF3B0B8-FE23-4A13-A610-6EF26886E3C9.jpeg

Fake has machined lines compared to the smooth curves of real HP links. The fake screws have a larger diameter countersink compared to real HP screws.

If you grab two adjacent links on the fake, there is more play between them than the OEM. The stud on the back of a fake screw is smaller diameter than the receiving hole on the fake link
allowing for more movement.

FF39E41A-29D3-433D-AF98-EE506DC3D991.jpeg

fake clasp release back compared to real. The fake doesn’t flow with the circular curvature.

D5E630CC-E9DA-4B62-B576-B09DF0A456A0.jpeg

Just like MM’s, straight cut lines between the pushers and crown.

D50C8C6B-2E65-45EC-8908-9A938B651AD5.jpeg


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Last edited:

Brit@KSA

Oakley Expert
Well add me to the list of people scammed by YFG. What I thought was a grail is nothing more than a knockoff. Now that you’ve laid out all the telltales @zwc0442, I can’t believe I ignored all the differences up until now.

Definitely harder to spot at first compared to MM fakes, but when comparing side by side, it’s really obvious.

View attachment 884761
C - Clip securing pushers on Fake


View attachment 884762
Threaded pusher on Real HP

View attachment 884764
Fake HP has curvy (polished) O logo

View attachment 884765
Real HP has a flat (Matte) O logo

View attachment 884767
View attachment 884768
Coarse thread screws on Fake. Fine thread screws on real HP.

View attachment 884769
Fake has machined lines compared to the smooth curves of real HP links. The fake screws have a larger diameter countersink compared to real HP screws.

View attachment 884770
fake clasp release back compared to real. The fake doesn’t flow with the circular curvature.

View attachment 884773
Just like MM’s, straight cut lines between the pushers and crown.

View attachment 884772

View attachment 884775

View attachment 884774



OMG!!!!

Gotta go check mine, better be sure
 

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