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Time Bomb 1 Watch Band Pins and Disassembly


I should Work at Oakley
Premium Member
I picked up a couple TB1’s that needed a thorough cleaning to remove gunk/funk/DNA. The main band to Case pins were bowed so I knew I would need new pins. I figured I might as well replace all the pins.

This was the first time I’ve had to replace pins because I was never a watch guy until recently. I had no idea what pins were what. Which ones were original. Which had been swapped out to make it work.

So, through some trial and error, I’ve figured out what could be a solid baseline for replacing the pins in a TB1 when fully disassembled.

I initially bought a generic cotter pin set from Amazon. Come to find out, there are specific diameters in this watch.

Once I figured out proper diameters and lengths, I was able to order specific pins from a Watch part supplier (specifically Esslinger and Julesborel). I did have to place several orders through my trial and error phase.

I hope this will help someone needing to replace any or all the pins in their TB1 and eliminate any of the headaches I had in rebuilding. Or, don’t be cheap like me and take your watch to a jeweler.

As far as tools, I bought a watch repair kit from Amazon like this:


Using the punches and hammer, you simply drive the pins out. The removable links for sizing have an arrow indicating the direction the pins come out. Sometimes the guy putting em in may have reversed it. They should come out pretty easily. If they don’t, flip the band over and drive it out the other way.


The first three links are placed in that exact order in the picture. The following links are removable for sizing.

Link 1: This link captures the wrist pads and secures the band to the watch case. The pin I removed (may or may not be original) is a straight pin 22.5mm long and .9mm thick. There are two friction pipes that should stay in the wrist pads that hold the pin in place. I ended up replacing this pin with a cotter pin style 23.5mm long and .9mm thick. 23.5mm is the maximum length pin you can insert without the pin protruding from the link. You could go back with the same style pin and friction tube, I just chose the cotter pin due to ease of assembly.

Link 2: This link is not like the others. It’s different because there are two different diameter bores. The inner bore is .9mm. The outer bore is 1.2mm. A cotter pin will not work here. It must be a pin and friction tube style. What I removed (may or may not be original) is 15mm long and .9mm thick. One end of the pin is stepped (machined) to the larger diameter of 1.2mm. On the other end, a friction tube that is 3mm long with 1.2mm O.D. is placed over the pin end. I haven’t found a pin like this (although I didn’t try that hard). What I used is a .9mm diameter pin with pressed on friction tubes on both ends. The pin that attaches to link 1 can be a maximum of 19mm long x .9mm thick. The pin that attaches to link 3 can be a maximum of 18mm long x .9mm thick. The friction tubes I bought were only 1.5mm long so I had to use several on each end to keep the pin from shifting out of the band. If you use a 15mm long pin you won’t have any problems with the pin sliding out.



Link 3 and the rest of the sizing links (including clasp) : This is where it got easier. What I removed and went back with is a 17mm long x 1.2mm thick cotter pin.


In summary, the pins I used are:

Link 1: 23.5mm x .9mm Cotter Pin
Link 2: 19mm x .9mm pin w/ 1.2mm O.D. friction
18mm x .9mm pin w/ 1.2mm O.D. friction
Link 3 and On: 17mm x 1.2mm Cotter Pin

*** Disassemble at your own risk***

Good Luck, and thank you for getting this far into this post. Haha. Let me know if you’ve had better luck using different types of pins/lengths or any other helpful tips and tricks for disassembly and assembly.