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So the big question would be should the value be the same btw no mark and SKU/serial#?
What do you gentlemen think?

On an R1? That’s a good question...I think value may be slightly lower without a serial number, as it’s then a warranty frame, but it’s really individualized to the buyer. (And I don’t think it’s a huge difference, maybe $25 to $50 less) Some people only buy frames, even Julies with serials and matching boxes.

Certain serials have more value. For instance the “x” serial Juliet’s tend to be more than the “J” serials...also, the 4 digit “Jordan” R1s are more than a regular XM R1...


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I just got my first set of Holbrook XL and Sliver XL glasses. The model, lens (prizm looks accurate), and box seem good but what other things should i be looking for to make sure they are legit?
 
Hey fellas, I'm getting a really sweet deal on these. The Pit Boss 1st Gen. Polished Black VR28s. Just want to confirm of possible fake or not before i take the plunge. The guy's just giving me the box and glasses - Only thing missing is the soft pouch.

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Hey fellas, I'm getting a really sweet deal on these. The Pit Boss 1st Gen. Polished Black VR28s. Just want to confirm of possible fake or not before i take the plunge. The guy's just giving me the box and glasses - Only thing missing is the soft pouch.

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Can you get better pic of the rivets? Or straight on shot of the orbitals? Or, have them take a pic of the inside of the hinge while closed to check for the "A"...
 
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